A medical cosmetic procedure will typically involve deep exfoliation and disruption of the skin’s barrier. When this happens, the skin is no longer protected from environmental stressors and pollution and loses its ability to protect and defend itself. If perfumes, emulsifiers and mineral oils are added to skin care products at this stage, the skin can quickly become further compromised.

The restore stage will therefore focus on recovery of the stratum corneum using a variety of different skin care products that are aimed at rebuilding the hydrolipid barrier function. These products should contain healthy lipids. The sebaceous lipids are primarily nonpolar lipids as triglycerides, wax esters and squalene, while epidermal lipids are a mixture of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol.

  1. Squalene: Squalane has powerful anti-aging properties and will help prevent premature skin aging. It also has anti-inflammatory benefits to help with skin conditions such as acne and eczema.
  2. Essential free fatty acids: Fatty acids such as linoleic acid has a direct role in maintaining the hydrolipid permeability barrier of the skin and so improves skin hydration. Linoleic acid can also decrease inflammation from acne skin conditions.
  3. Ceramides: Ceramides are an important component of the skin’s hydrolipid barrier. Skin that is found to be lipid dry will most benefit from this type of moisturizer
  4. Urea: Urea is made up of up to 40% amino acids and is strongly hygroscopic, which means it binds water to the skin. It has anti-microbial and anti-itch properties, It acts as a natural exfoliant and will aid in skin renewal for a youthful glow.
  5. Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is one of the main glycosaminoglycan in the skin. These are complex sugars that create a nutrient filled matrix in the skin with the ability to draw in and hold water in the skin. Think of this as skin hydration at its best.

Analyzing your skin under UV light can better reveal components of your hydrolipid barrier. This way the right skin care product can be prescribed to target your skin conditions.


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